Apehanger handlebars

I had mini apehangers (10" rise) on my Honda and I really liked them. They allowed my arms and wrists to stay in a comfortable, neutral position. The first time I sat on the Nomad I knew I'd be changing the handlebars as I felt like I was sitting on a crotch rocket.

After some measuring and mocking up I decided to go with Flanders H3 Wide and Tall (13") Apehangers which I ordered from Scootworks. These had a similar width of the stock bars with the classic apehanger pullback. When I got the bars in I set them in place, but they still needed to be closer to me. I ordered some risers and this did the trick. In hindsight you could probably use 16" apehangers and the stock risers.

Note - the new risers actually made the stock handlebars feel pretty good. The only bad part was the grip ends of the handlebars needed to turn out more. The way they were I had to bend my wrists outward and after 30 minutes or so they would get tingly.

Here are the Flanders H3 handlebars...13" height, 10.5" pullback, 11" center, 35" width.

Although changing the handlebars and cables sounds intimidating, it is just a long process of removing and replacing components. I'll show the highlights in pictures.

Some of the bolts have chrome caps. I used a pick tool to pry them off. These are 5mm Allen head bolts. You'll also need 4mm and 6mm Allen head tools throughout this project.

Remove the brake and clutch reservoirs and the electrical housings and you're down to the bare handlebars. I left the grip on as I'm putting new Kuryakyn grips on the new handlebars. Before you loosen the handlebars put a protective towel over the tank.

I put the new apehangers in place and snugged them in place about where I wanted them.

Next I drained and removed the front brake lines. The bolt in the junction block was very tight and I had to fight with it a little.

I ordered 8" over stock Barnett throttle cables and 10" over clutch/brake lines by Galfer from Phat Performance. I arrived at these lengths by mockup and guestimation. It took about 3 weeks to get them as they are made as ordered. They are also non-returnable.

Note - After it was all said and done I would have been better off ordering everything 4" shorter than what I did.

There's a lot of disassembly required to get to everything...gas tank, headlight, fork covers, etc. Keep track of all your bolts.

To get to the clutch cylinder you have to remove the left engine side cover (5mm Allen). To remove the side cover you have to loosen the floorboard (14mm socket) and remove the shifters (10mm socket).

Here's the clutch cylinder.

Here's the throttle body where the throttle cables attach to. Give the cables some slack and remove them. The bottom cable is the 'pull' cable.

From here everything is reassembly:

- Attach the new throttle cables to the throttle body and run them to the handlebars.
- Attach the throttle cables to the housing and put them on the handlebars.

*** It was at this point I was ecstatic to find out I wouldn't have to lengthen the wiring. There was enough extra to reach!!! Lengthening the wires would have been by far the most time consuming part.

- Glue the left grip on.
- Attach the left side switch housing.
- Attach the clutch and brake reservoirs. Run the new lines and bleed them.
- Assemble all the pieces you've loosened or taken off.
- Adjust the mirrors, levers, throttle play, etc.

Here is everything reassembled. You can see my cables are a little too long. I'll get some clamps for these and route them along the handlebars to eat up the extra length.

The whole process took about 10 hours.

Here's a comparison of the stock handlebars and the apehangers. You can see how the apehanger grip location isn't really much higher than the factory bars, but they are more 'down and out' as opposed to 'flat and back'.

Here are the Kuryakyn grips, Throttle Boss, and blue trim rings.

The new handlebars and grips are wonderful!

More pictures of the new apehangers.






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